I was thinking of that too
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Z9 Firmware 2.0: feedback on AF, RSF...
- Thread starter fcotterill
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arbitrage
Well-known member
Lots of fun shapes to try out. I'd like a long narrow one for shooting ducks moving on water from low angle. Just have that 1 or 2 square high long rectangle to target the ducks as they move side to side and avoid water or background distractions.
I had some fun playing with custom shapes on the Canon R3 when I had it for the 3 day CPS test drive.
I had some fun playing with custom shapes on the Canon R3 when I had it for the 3 day CPS test drive.
FWIW, you can change the shape of the Wide AF areas on the fly. Right now, that's how I'm testing. Rather than just having it as a couple of set sizes, I'm just using C1 and changing it on the fly as needed to try out different shapes.
If you want to do the same, hold down the Focus Mode button (or one assigned to focus modes - I have my Movie Record button set for it) and as you continue to press, use the multi-selector to change the size of the AF area right in the viewfinder. It's pretty quick and allows you to play with different sizes. I think eventually I'll settle on a couple I like and those will become the more or less permanent C1/C2 sizes.
If you want to do the same, hold down the Focus Mode button (or one assigned to focus modes - I have my Movie Record button set for it) and as you continue to press, use the multi-selector to change the size of the AF area right in the viewfinder. It's pretty quick and allows you to play with different sizes. I think eventually I'll settle on a couple I like and those will become the more or less permanent C1/C2 sizes.
that is where I put it and works well
fcotterill
Well-known member
With no options to select C30 nor C120 under RSF, the only way is to have PreCapture enabled in the d menu,
Precapture is instantly activated by depressing the left hand top Release button and rear scrolling to C30 or C120
MikePapple
Well-known member
I wonder if Olympus has patented Pro-capture, and Nikon has licensed it, but not for RAW.
fcotterill
Well-known member
Nikon had a version of precapture some years earlier in Nikon 1 MILCs. RED and Canon have similar features in their video cameras. It is mainly in the software and possibly there are some the specifics of the buffer hardware
zule11
Active member
TCSTV Live: Hands-On Nikon Z9 Firmware 2.0 Update
BillW
Well-known member
I was out at a local national wildlife refuge yesterday, using the 100-400 mm S lens and 2x Z TC on my Z9.
I found a downside to using RSF hold, at least for me and the buttons I have chosen for it (so far). I had assigned RSF hold to the lens buttons, figuring that it would be nice to be able to go quickly to BIF settings on my 100-400 mm and 500 mm PF lenses (and 800 mm lens to come). My camera was set to shoot CL at 8 fps. The RSF hold engaged BIF and fast action settings — including Ch and 20 fps. I was photographing yellow-rumped warblers and ruby-crowned kinglets in a forested setting. My Z9 and lens was on a BlackRapid strap (usually with my hand on it to keep it from swinging).
On several occasions when I brought the camera to my eye, I found I was at Ch and 20 fps. At first, I did not know why and changed the settings back to CL 8fps using the Quick release mode button and command dials. When it happened again, I realized what was happening. I was accidentally bumping the lens button — maybe with the lens hitting my leg when it was not at my eye or perhaps my fingers hitting one of the lens buttons as I raised the camera and lens to my eye. Because RSF was set to hold, when I bumped a lens button accidentally, the camera stayed in my RSF settings. So if I pressed a lens button, the camera would go back to CL 8 fps.
This makes me think I should either set RSF to the version that requires continuing to press the button or switch RSF to a different button not as prone to be accidentally bumped.
One other item. I was also testing the 1x3 (vertical) custom wide area mode with animal subject detection on small birds. I found it worked quite well on birds in trees with branches around them.
Using 1x3 custom wide area did not prevent the occasional situation (that others have reported) where the camera would not focus on a bird that was close, at least without some “help.”
I found a downside to using RSF hold, at least for me and the buttons I have chosen for it (so far). I had assigned RSF hold to the lens buttons, figuring that it would be nice to be able to go quickly to BIF settings on my 100-400 mm and 500 mm PF lenses (and 800 mm lens to come). My camera was set to shoot CL at 8 fps. The RSF hold engaged BIF and fast action settings — including Ch and 20 fps. I was photographing yellow-rumped warblers and ruby-crowned kinglets in a forested setting. My Z9 and lens was on a BlackRapid strap (usually with my hand on it to keep it from swinging).
On several occasions when I brought the camera to my eye, I found I was at Ch and 20 fps. At first, I did not know why and changed the settings back to CL 8fps using the Quick release mode button and command dials. When it happened again, I realized what was happening. I was accidentally bumping the lens button — maybe with the lens hitting my leg when it was not at my eye or perhaps my fingers hitting one of the lens buttons as I raised the camera and lens to my eye. Because RSF was set to hold, when I bumped a lens button accidentally, the camera stayed in my RSF settings. So if I pressed a lens button, the camera would go back to CL 8 fps.
This makes me think I should either set RSF to the version that requires continuing to press the button or switch RSF to a different button not as prone to be accidentally bumped.
One other item. I was also testing the 1x3 (vertical) custom wide area mode with animal subject detection on small birds. I found it worked quite well on birds in trees with branches around them.
Using 1x3 custom wide area did not prevent the occasional situation (that others have reported) where the camera would not focus on a bird that was close, at least without some “help.”
It’s frustrating but I think it can be prevented/solved with a firmware update. I do like the new custom area modes and like having one more in a vertical orientation.
fcotterill
Well-known member
I find RSF (hold) works well on Fn3. More out of the way, but accessible in vertical shooting and RSF is now improved as it doesn't have to be held down with a small finger.
I set Ln-Fn to AutoAF+AFon usually.
I set Ln-Fn to AutoAF+AFon usually.
Fn3 has been my choice for RSF too. It is easy to access and unlikely to be activated accidentally.
Chris K
Well-known member
I found with my 100-400 it's easy to bump both the LFn button and (especially!) the AF/MF switch. I haven't had that problem with my 500PF. I think the 100-400's switches just don't have as much resistance as I'd like.
I have the same problem with my Nikkor Micro 105 F2.8VR. To help prevent it, I put a little piece of gaffers tape over the switches. Gaffer tape sticks well but does not leave sticky glue residue. The Sigma 100-400 also suffers from the same issue. You can get gaffer's tape from Amazon or just about any music store that sells live performance stuff (i.e. Guitar Center etc.)
Chris K
Well-known member
That's a great tip, Jeff. Thanks. I'm going to do that on my 100-400's AF/MF switch. Using BBF and manual focus override, I almost never use that switch, especially on a telephoto.
I agree with the 105VR. I often bumped the limiter switch accidentally on that one.
I agree with the 105VR. I often bumped the limiter switch accidentally on that one.
AntonioM
Member
I have tried de RSF function with a 24-120mm f4 G lents and it works. But with an AF-S 500mmf4 D lens it doesn't. Anyone has the same problem?
Thanks
Thanks
I have the same problem with my 100-400 lens ring…it’s set for exposure comp but routinely gets moved by my leg or side hanging on my BR strap…and am constantly having to preset it. Haven’t figured out a good solution yet except to disable it.
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BillW
Well-known member
Do you think it matters in this situation whether the camera and lens start off focused behind the intended subject? Any chance it works better if you start off focused closer than the intended subject? And if the latter, could you set up a preset focus distance that was moderately close and allowed you to have the camera start from being focused closer than the intended subject?
Honestly there's nothing I haven't tried and I'm pretty close to selling it to be honest with you. I do not like the size, weight or ergonomics. I'd honestly much rather use my Z6-2 at this point.
Chris K
Well-known member
This is out of left field as far as RSF goes, but personally, I don't use it. Here's what I do instead:
When going between BIF and perched birds, I have to manually adjust my shutter speed and EC (hooray for the control ring!), and I generally get 2-3 frames even when I want one, because I rarely bother adjusting the camera to CL mode for stationary subjects.
I concede that this is not as automatic a way to shoot as using RSF, but I find that when I get too "fancy" with my camera setup I tend to lose more shots stumbling over my own fingers than I save from automation.
I share in hopes that -- if your frustration is primarily RSF-related -- I can share an alternate way to work that might work better for you. Try if you like!
- Set the camera to area AF with BBAF
- Set Fn1 to 3D Tracking AF - Hold
- Set Fn2 to Single point AF - Hold
- Set the camera to C-AF
- Turn on automatic subject detection
- Set the camera to CH - 20fps
- Set the camera to M with auto ISO.
When going between BIF and perched birds, I have to manually adjust my shutter speed and EC (hooray for the control ring!), and I generally get 2-3 frames even when I want one, because I rarely bother adjusting the camera to CL mode for stationary subjects.
I concede that this is not as automatic a way to shoot as using RSF, but I find that when I get too "fancy" with my camera setup I tend to lose more shots stumbling over my own fingers than I save from automation.
I share in hopes that -- if your frustration is primarily RSF-related -- I can share an alternate way to work that might work better for you. Try if you like!
I and I think several others are using RSF for only one purpose to turn subject detection off with a button push ... why I have it on record button with is easy for me to hit.
I had that challenge with the Z100-400 control ring so turned it off. Then I read some more and went to f10 Control Ring Response and changed it to Low and now I have it back on and in the last two times out it worked much better with it on my black rapids strap.
Thanks…I will give that a try and see if it helps. On the Z7II f10 is switch focus and control ring functions… ut that at least moves the esp comp to the other ring which is a lot harder to bump. Will try it and see next time out before disabling it again if no joy.
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Chris K
Well-known member
This is a bit off-topic, but I’ve left my subject detection on 100% of the time. My Fuji cameras will sometimes find “fake faces”, but my Z6 and Z9 have never done so. If they don’t see a face, they seem to shoot like I had subject detection turned off.
Why are you guys turning off subject detection? Am I missing some advantage?
For me it is a fast way to be able to focus on whatever I want if the camera gets hung up on something I do not want it to. Say I have it on animals and I suddenly want to photograph the animals owner etc.. but in reality it has not been an issue yet for me but I am a newbie to the Z world.